If you set two screws in each of the tabs, I'm not sure how you are still able to 'rock it back and forth'? These have holes to anchor the refrigerator to your opening, and then the white trim strips snap over the tabs to conceal these. The 700 series has metal tabs on the sides of the unit (four each side).

Especially with panels attached, the door is very heavy and the fridge will tip. I don't remember off the top of my head what that model number includes, but be sure you follow the installation instructions to the letter with reference to anti-tip devices. You need to remove panels to make minor adjustments, which is not easy with a large finished panel by yourself. My big complaint is the lack of panel adjustment with panels in place. I allowed a day to install and spent over two days getting them in place, lined up, and panels installed. You are right, they are a pain to install. I did a pair of them (separate refrigerator and freezer) separated by an 8' run of cabinets. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Why didn't they countersink those rivets on the side of the sheet metal cabinet? They made a couple nice dings on the bead as the fridge was being pushed back in. I'm having trouble getting the consistent 1/8' gap on both sides too, even though the opening is good and the panels on the reefer all line up well. All the feet are making contact, but it can be rocked back and forth. I tried for the next hour to get the reefer back in the hole, brought it up about 1/2' on the levelers, and it seems kind of spongy. I got the cabinet in, all scribed, attached, and the opening is the right size, plumb, etc. Anyway, I have a tall pantry on the left, a cabinet above it, and a stile on the right side of the reefer where there's a wall. I'm doing my first install with a 700 series built in subzero.

Sub zero door panel installation